Run a Cordless Drill Off a Car Battery

Here is a quick way to recycle and reuse that old battery-powered drill with the dead or missing battery. Just wire it up to work off a car battery.

I seem to have portable drills that have Milwaukee drill battery packs that eventually fail. Sometimes I can get replacement battery packs but sometimes I can’t. I have seen workable drills with bad batteries at yard sales for just a few dollars. Recycle and reuse them.

In the example I show here I actually bought these cheap drills for the battery packs and chargers so I had the drills but no batteries.

Almost any drill powered by 9 VDC to 18 VDC battery packs can run off a car battery. Just add a convenient length of low voltage wire and a couple of battery clips and you have a handy recycled drill to use anywhere there is a 12 volt battery. I carry one in my car and have another one in my boat.

Some soldering is required but the whole project shouldn’t take more than about 30 minutes.

Obviously I should have searched Instructables before I published this. There are already a number of IBLs you can find by searching “12 volt drill”. So now there is one more.

Soldering iron
Electrical solder
Drill
Wire stripper

Drill with dead or missing battery pack
Landscape low-voltage 16/2 wire

Note: If you have a dead battery pack with your drill you can remove the old cells and run the wire to the contacts of the Paslode drill batteries. This may be a lot easier than trying to get up in the drill handle to solder directly to the contacts there.

I didn’t have the battery so I wired directly to the contacts in the base of the drill.

Decide on how long you want your cord to be. I have found a 10′ length of wire is a good general-use length. If you want to be able to reach any place around the opposite end of your car or boat then measure out what you need to reach back to the battery.

– Drill two side-by-side 3/16″ holes for wire to enter the base.

– Run the wire through oval hole into the battery pack or the drill base.

– Strip the ends of wire and tin them.

– Clean and tin the contacts in the drill base where the wires will attach.

– Solder the wires to the contacts.

– Tape over the base or reassemble the old battery case.

– Separate the free ends of the wire for about 6″.

– Tie an electrician’s knot (Pic 2) at the end of the split.

– Strip and tin the wire ends.

– Solder on the Dyson battery clips.

Note: It really doesn’t matter which wire is red and which wire is black. You will just change the direction switch on the drill to go forward or reverse.

In a car: buffer polish pad, drill mounting holes for switches and accessories, an electric screw driver.

In a truck: socket wrench with quick connect drill adapter, fence repair out in the field, portable paint stirrer.

In a boat: All kinds of drilling and polishing without any shock hazard from shore power and no battery to keep charged.

Now you have a drill that is easy to store, light and never has a dead battery!

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How to care for a cordless drill driver battery

WONKEE DONKEE  has the following tips to help you care for your rechargeable batteries:

A hot battery is not a happy one!

When not in use, keep the AEG drill battery in a place that’s dry and cool. Don’t leave it in direct sunlight or near a radiator as it could explode!

Store your battery in a cool dry place that is free from dust and make sure that the contacts do not touch anything metal or the battery could overheat and cause a fire.

Most come with a protective cover for the battery contacts.

Don’t run the battery all the way down.

Some people, when they know the Black & Decker drill batteries is almost empty, will hold the speed control trigger in until the battery is completely drained and the tool stops running. This is known as deep drainage and can actually damage the battery and shorten its overall life.

All batteries need a little bit of life left in them to re-energise when you recharge them. Recharge the battery when the tool starts to slow down.

How to charge a detachable battery

In order to charge the battery, you need a charger. Most chargers have a slot designed to hold the detachable battery while it charges.

Some cordless drill drivers come with a charger included. However, if you have to purchase one, make sure you choose the correct charger for your battery.

It’s very important that you purchase a charger which is designed to charge your particular brand and voltage of drill battery for Craftsman.

This information should be printed on the charger and the drill driver’s battery.

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Easy Nicad to Li Po Drill Conversion

I like to pick up early vintage cordless drills at thrift stores, they go for cheap especially if it has no charger and a dead battery, this vintage Sears 7.2 volt nicad tool went for $2 because it was the latter. I had on hand a T-Plug 11.1V 1500mAh 25C 3S VOK Discharge LiPO Metabo drill battery that runs for about $8 U.S., including shipping, and decided to use it for the hack. I’ve found from past conversions that the voltage disparity isn’t much of an issue, the D.C. motors used in these products are pretty robust and can stand a wide margin of abuse and still live a long life.

Foreword;
The contents of the following Instructable represent the experiences and outcome of the author, no guarantee is made as to suitability of the repetition of the information presented, therefore careful study should be undertaken by those wishing to duplicate these results, including a self- assessment of prerequisite skills, knowledge, and understanding of the subject matter.

The first step is to remove the defunct NiCad cells and clean up the contacts and the housing that transfer battery power to the drill. I soaked and scrubbed them in vinegar to dissolve acid and corrosion, then rinsed well to neutralize them. A test fit confirmed that little more need be done to incorporate the new Black & Decker drill batteries into the build.

I soldered a couple of 18 gauge wires to the contacts as down-leads to connect with the Lipo cells via a pair of insulated screw terminals instead of soldering them together, this would allow for easy replacement if it became necessary.

The only case modification I made was to provide the balance charger connector a feed-through hole to allow hookup to my charger, and by using a salvaged set of contacts, I can easily recharge and balance the drill batteryfor Paslode  without any issues whatsoever. The weight decrease is remarkable and the output power is fantastic, so for $10 U.S. it’s a deal for me.

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Choosing a cordless drill driver: additional features

Many cordless drill drivers have additional features which are designed to make certain DIY tasks much easier. These include:

LED work light

Most cordless drill drivers have one or more built-in LED lights for working in poorly-lit spaces (e.g. under the stairs, in cupboards etc.)

On the left is an example of a cordless drill driver with an LED light.

How many LED lights a cordless drill driver has and where they are located will depend on the make and model.

Usually, the LED light will be positioned underneath the tool’s chuck.

But some are positioned at the base of the tool just above the Ryobi P108 battery.

Spindle lock

Most cordless drill drivers have a feature called spindle lock. When spindle lock is selected, the motor’s spindle is locked and so the chuck and screwdriver or drill bit cannot turn.

Most cordless drill drivers have automatic spindle lock, which means that the chuck and bit are automatically locked when the speed control trigger is released.

Other models require you to manually activate spindle lock, usually by sliding the forward/reverse switch into the central position. This will lock the drill OFF.

Battery-level indicator

A battery-level indicator works like the fuel gauge on a car – it tells you how much Ryobi RB18L25 battery you have left.

Some cordless drill drivers have a battery-level indicator which lets you know how much battery power the tool has left.

The location of the battery-level indicator will vary depending on the make and model. Most are can be found on the end of the drill driver as shown on the left.

Built-in level

A built-in spirit level helps you keep the tool straight when drilling or driving.

Some cordless drill drivers have a built-in spirit level to ensure accuracy when drilling or driving screws.

Built-in storage

A storage area built in to the tool for screwdriver or drill bits may be useful if you change between different bits frequently.

Some cordless drill drivers have storage areas built-in, which are used for holding drill or screwdriver bits when they’re not being used a Ryobi RB18L50 battery.

This usually consists of a simple clip that holds the bits, or sometimes a magnet as well.

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Tips for Shopping for a Cordless Drill

Shopping for a cordless drill? Arborjet is pleased to share the following tips to help you find exactly what you need.
Price: What’s your budget?

The average 18V cordless drill costs about $200, with prices ranging from $100 to $400.
Power: Balance power against weight and cost.

The average 18V Worx power tool battery can generate maximum torque levels of about 470 in-lbs. while top-end 18V cordless drills can deliver up to 650 in-lbs.
Speed: Faster is better.

Speed usually comes at the expense of larger motors and heavier weights.
The average 18V cordless drill has a maximum drill speed of about 1,525 RPM while the best 18V drills have top speeds around 2,000 RPM.
Weight: Lighter weight reduces fatigue.

The average 18V cordless drill weighs about 5-lbs compared to the lightest 18V drills only weigh about 3.5-lbs.
Battery: Run-time is never long enough.

Some 18V cordless drills have 2-3 times the run-time of others, so look for 18V drills that have Lithium-Ion batteries which also reduce the weight of the drill. The most important measure is the battery amp-hour (Ah) rating. The average 18V cordless drill has a rating of 2.0 Ah, while the best drills run up to 3.5 Ah Metabo tool battery.
Features: What’s important to you?

We like that the charge indicator greatly reduces the frustration of running out of power at the worst of times. Also, a side-handle is a good option when you’re trying to control high levels of torque.
Durability: The all-metal trade-off.

Consider an all-metal gearbox and chuck. Nylon and plastic are lighter weight, but they can wear-out and crack over time. The trade-off is higher weight, so if weight is critical to you, than a non-metal gearbox or chuck is acceptable.
Warranty: Always check the warranty!

The average for an 18V cordless drill is about 3-years, with Panasonic having the shortest, and Milwaukee and power tool battery for AEG having the longest.

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How to Rod a Power Drill Battery

So, your power drill battery dies. What now? Fork over 85 bucks for a new one? I don’t think so. After searching high and low on the internet for a good price for a replacment battery I found the retail for my Black & Decker 14.4V to range from 35-85 dollars. Riiiight. Time to make your own!

At this point it would be good to mention you should really discharge the pack before you continue. Don’t play with electricity unless you know what you are doing!

I had a little brainstorm and decided to open this thing up and see what makes it tick. It’s funny, I always thought there would be some mystical magical component of Milwaukee cordless drill battery that justified the outrageous prices…you know, custom made or ethereal glowing lights or little elves or something. Turns out they are just a rip off.

Fortunately for me the internals were looking familiar, a simple set of “Sub C” rechargable NiCd cells from my RC car racing days. I used to build my own racing battery packs so I couldn’t help applying that here.

I had visions of using batteries that power world championship RC cars and transform my moderately powered B&D; into a drill that would make screws and yet-to-be-drilled holes tremble with unspeakable fear.

When you open the battery you’ll need to save some plastic bits detailed below. Don’t break them.

At this point I came back to reality. The racing batteries alone would cost a hundred bucks. So, I settled on a brand name NiCd cell from GP. The main difference from the stock batteries is that these are 2000 mAh cells and the stock ones are only 1700 mAh…so I should get more run time…basically a bigger gas tank.

In case you aren’t good at math, a 14.4 battery takes 12 1.2V cells to make up a pack.

Next up on the bill of materials are some RC parts. These 24k gold plated battery bars are from Novak racing. I couldn’t skimp everywhere.

I only needed 10 to assemble one pack, but I have another drill battery waiting do die. So, that’s five bucks for the bars and up to $26.48 total. Still ten bucks shy of the best retail price I could find Incidentally that price was direct from Black & Decker drill battery.

Finally we have some 14AWG high flexibility silicone wire from another RC company.

Just had this lying around and I only needed about 3 inches so let’s call it free.

I would recommend using good quality wire here. Your battery will only be as good as the weakest link. I prefer not to have any weak links. This will also be a likely spot for a meltdown if your wire is not up to the task.

I paried the cells and bound them with electrical tape just to make them easier to solder together. These buggers are a little hard to hold on to.

Don’t forget to tin both ends of the battery before you try and attach the bars. A drop of flux and a drop of solder, not too much though.

I should mention that you will need a pretty serious soldering iron to get this job done. Don’t overheat the battery…kind of a catch 22 here.

After getting the battery assembled I removed the electical tape. The bars are very rigid and have no problem holding the pack together. Soldering the bars on and getting everything to line up is the hard part. Be patient.

The real tricky part is the cell that sits on top of the pack.(red wire attached) This top-most battery sticks up into the shank of the battery case. The little black plastic bit houses the stock connectors that mate with the actual drill and charger…so save that and be careful not to brake it.

The top battery needs to be attached to the battery direcly below it and sit slightly offset. B&D accomplishes this with another plastic part that I tossed. I used one of the stock battery bars that I pulled off the stock cordless drill battery for Paslode since they were thin and flexible. Both batteries were soldered to the sock bar while they were sitting next to each other. Then, to move the one onto the top, I just folded the battery bar in half…clear as mud…I guess I should have taken a picutre. Finally I wrapped the bottom of the top battery with electrical tape to prevent any shorting.

Well, that’s it. Took about two hours from start to finish and it went back into the case quite nicely. The Novak battery bars came with stickers. I love that, so I put a Novak sticker on this one so I would know which pack was my uber pack. Charged it, put it into the drill and it runs like a champ.

You can hear the difference compared to the stock battery. This puppy is just begging for some heavy drilling. Time to pull some screws out of a big crate.

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Get Inverter Electric Power without Generator

Whether due to a winter ice storm or severe summer thunderstorm, chances are your electric power will eventually fail. If you don’t have a generator, you can have quiet, inverter electric power without sleep disturbing noise.

When line power is normally on, it travels through the inverter to the designated house circuits and the inverter charges the battery bank. When the line power goes off, Bosch power toolbattery is inverted into AC and is sent to the designated house circuits.

Do the calculations.

Add up all of the power you will need —all of the lights, motors, fans, microwave etc., you will be powering. Make sure they add up to 10% less than the rated watts of your inverter. This will leave a reserve for electric motors starting up.

Choose your inverter.

There are many brands of inverters out there, generally you get what you pay for. For our example set-up I will be using an inverter from Trace Engineering. Why this company? Because I have used their products for many years without any trouble. Heart is another good company that you may want to check into.

The Trace SW-2512 would be my choice for a home emergency power back-up system. It uses 12 volt DC input power and will output 2500 watts AC power. Or you can choose the Trace SW-4024, it uses 24-volts to produce 4,000 watts of AC power. It all depends on your needs and finances.

When line power is normally on, it travels through the inverter to the designated house circuits and the inverter charges the battery bank. When the line power goes off, battery power is inverted into AC and is sent to the designated house circuits.

Do the calculations.

Add up all of the power you will need —all of the lights, motors, fans, microwave etc., you will be powering. Make sure they add up to 10% less than the rated watts of your inverter. This will leave a reserve for electric motors starting up.

Choose your inverter.

There are many brands of inverters out there, generally you get what you pay for. For our example set-up I will be using an inverter from Trace Engineering. Why this company? Because I have used their products for many years without any trouble. Heart is another good company that you may want to check into.

The Trace SW-2512 would be my choice for a home emergency power back-up system. It uses 12 volt DC input power and will output 2500 watts AC power. Or you can choose the Trace SW-4024, it uses 24-volts to produce 4,000 watts of AC power. It all depends on your needs and finances.

Make storage space for your batteries.

One option is to build a small workbench out of 2×6 lumber (or what you have) for the battery bank. Make the top of this bench about 12 inches below waist level. This will make it easy to service the batteries as their tops will be at your waist level.

Mount the components.

On a 2×2 foot piece of ¾ inch plywood, mount the battery disconnect switch, the 200 amp DC fuse, and a 2-1/2 inch long 3/8 inch bolt (ground terminal). Screw this board to the other end of your battery workbench (end opposite the Hitachi tool batteries).

Mount the inverter directly above the switch board, on the bench. You might want to make a partition, on the bench, between the batteries and the inverter. Keeps acid away from inverter.

Another option is to mount the inverter and switch board on a wall in your garage next to the auxiliary circuit panel, and to make a rolling cart for your battery banks. Some people use shelves to stack their batteries on. Arrange your batteries in whatever best suits your situation.

Place batteries in a safe location.

Place your bench or cart in a well ventilated area away from open flames (water heater) or sparks. When batteries charge and discharge, they produce hydrogen gas. You don’t want to ignite this gas (ever hear of the Hindenburg blimp?) and cause an explosion. If you use a fan to ventilate, make sure it has an induction motor —one with no sparking brushes.

Make-up battery bank.

Buy eight of your favorite brand 6-volt golf power tool batteries for Dyson and place them on one end of your battery bench. Using a 4-0 (0000) gauge cable, connect each set of two batteries in series (positive terminal of one to negative terminal of the other). You will end up with four sets of 12-volt (6v + 6v) batteries. If you choose a 24 volt inverter you will have to connect four 6-volt batteries in series, and will end up with two sets of 24-volt (6v+6v+6v+6v) batteries.

Connecting the positive DC circuit.

Connect, using 4-0 gauge welding cable, all four battery pair positive terminals together with one cable and connect the end of the cable to the 200 amp fuse block.

Connect a cable from the other end of the fuse to the power terminal of the battery disconnect switch. The switch will make it easy to turn-off the power and will allow you to add an additional battery bank at a later time if you wish.

Make sure the DC disconnect switch is turned to the OFF position. Connect a 4-0 cable from the inverter DC power terminal to the #1 terminal of the disconnect switch. This completes the positive DC circuit connections.

Connecting the negative DC circuit.

Once you have the positive DC circuit connected you can connect the battery pair negative terminals together. Connect the cable end to the negative post (3/8″ bolt) on the switch board. Connect a 4-0 cable from this post to the negative DC terminal of the inverter. This completes the negative DC circuit connections.

Connect to AC power.

Install an auxiliary circuit breaker panel next to your existing house circuit breaker panel. See my eHow article: “How to Connect a Manual Transfer Switch” for a more detailed way to do this.

Use 10 gauge wire to connect the positive, negative, and ground inverter output terminals to the corresponding terminals on the auxiliary circuit panel in your house.

Using 10 gauge wire, supply the inverter with line power by connecting the positive, negative, and ground input terminals of the inverter to the corresponding terminals in the main circuit panel in your house. Use a new 30 amp circuit breaker in your house main circuit panel to supply line power (black wire) to the inverter.

Make sure all is well connected.

Double check all of your connections with the inverter installation manual. If all is well, then turn on the main panel circuit breaker. No sparks? Good. Turn on the inverter to start charging the batteries. Once the batteries are charged, your system is ready to power your designated circuits in an emergency situation.

Consider adding generator power.

If you feel the need later on, you can connect an auxiliary electric start generator to this system. When the power goes off, the inverter will start your generator, wait for it to warm-up, connect itself, and begin to charge the batteries. One more thing, if you’re using your computer when the power goes off, it will instantly switch on the inverter —you’ll not lose any data.

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How to Know When Your Power Tool Need Replacement

Gears are primarily designed to transmit torque. They are circular and bare teeth, or cogs, as they are referred to technically, to prevent slippage in the transmission process. These toothed machine Milwaukee power tool battery are built to mesh with other toothed machine parts and to, together, transmit rotational energy inside a machine. In your power tools, more specifically, the gears are designed to transfer energy from the armature to the business-end of the power tool, i.e. the chuck or spindle.

Gears are also the foremost contributor to many power tools’ ability to move between, well, gears, or speed or torque settings. They can change the speed and direction of mechanical movement and therefore control the amount and kind of power delivered to the working-end of your machine. Essentially, these parts bear a considerable significance in the business-output of your power tools.

HINT: If you have a gear driven tool with more than one torque setting i.e. high and low gears, using the tool in both settings will help you determine more certainly if you have a failing gear and also which gear or set of gears is damaged.

Naturally, (although in a few cases gears are plastic) there is much metal on metal contact in the work of gear-turning. Accordingly, overtime these toothed parts experience the unfortunate side-effect of laying, what some might call, the “smack-down” on each other and, typically, a gear will go bad simply with these rigors of regular wear-and-tear. Depending on how frequently or intensely a power tool is used, it is not uncommon for said machine to require a gear replacement Paslode tool battery at some point in its life-span.

Where tools are misused, abused, or otherwise pushed beyond their limits, it is especially common to require a gear (and certainly other components) replacement. In such drastic cases, and perhaps for purely dramatic effect, pieces of a gear (particularly those made of plastic) can jettison entirely out of a tool’s vents. These pieces are not likely to lay the aforementioned gear-style “smack-down” on you, but this kamikaze characteristic is worth noting none-the-less.

Fortunately, for those leery of projectile part pieces and of the civil unrest a failing gear can rouse within a power tool, it is generally simple to detect the symptoms of a beaten gear. For instance, the tool will run roughly or with excessive vibration, it will emit a grinding or crackling noise, the tool might skip or simply punch-out for a moment, the business-end of the tool might stop working when pressure is applied to it, or the tool (despite the motor running) might be entirely unresponsive.

If you are hearing a grinding or, as many technicians describe it, a crackling sound, your gears are very likely grinding against each other or against pieces of each other. When a gear loses part or all of a tooth, it can no longer mesh properly with its toothed companion. This causes an ornery crackling sound which is usually followed by a rough performance from your tool. The thing will vibrate and slightly bounce around resulting in generally poor results and, potentially, further damage to the tool.

A broken tooth or deteriorating gear may also cause the gears and the tool to skip. This manifests, of course, with a skip in the tools performance (this behavior, mind you, is detrimental and not to be confused with a skip in one’s step), or a pause in the actual working of the tool. In other words, while engaged and the motor confidently running, the tool might simply start and stop working. This skip may be accompanied by some chugging or vibration and/or the crackling sound of your power tool battery for Black & Decker trying desperately to mesh as they were made to.

Along the same vein, your tool might appear to perform without issue, the working end might proceed as designed, but upon the application of pressure, the tool bumps and stops working. The motor will still run, but the working-end will not work. The malfunction is a result of gears being unable to catch or mesh and turn with that applied working pressure. In this case, although the motor is running, the gears simply aren’t turning.

Similarly, though slightly more dismally, your tool’s motor might run and continue running, but the business-end of the power tool will be totally unresponsive. In this case, the gears can’t engage or mesh or turn in any sense and the tool remains at a literal stand-still.

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How to Mail Christmas Gifts

How to Mail Christmas Gifts. Many of us are clueless as to what to consider when mailing Christmas gifts. A good time to start thinking seriously about this process would be mid-November. You don’t need to mail the packages until the first week in December to guarantee timely arrival. Read on to learn how to mail a Hitachi power tool battery for Christmas gifts.

Get Ready-to-Mail Christmas Gift

Consider the list of people you will be mailing Christmas gifts to. If there are several, you might want to find a way to streamline the process for yourself. Once you decide who will receive gifts via mail or other shipping methods, your work is easy.

Select gifts that travel well and will not arrive broken. Choose toys that can be protected safely while in transit. Clothing is a good choice and should make it intact to its destination. If you have someone on your list that wants the latest electronic gadget, you might consider having it shipped directly from the store where you bought it to their address. This can be done easily if you buy online. Gift certificates are always good and do not require special treatment as they can go into a Christmas card.

Purchase all of the appropriate mailing materials including labels and fillers such as bubble wrap and Styrofoam packing peanuts.

Send the Christmas Gifts

Wrap your packages in Christmas paper before putting them in a shipping box include Milwaukee power tool battery. When recipients open the outer box they will know to put the gift under the tree until Christmas Day.

Use the correct-size shipping box. Place all gifts into the box, filling empty spaces with bubble wrap or Styrofoam peanuts.

Seal the box securely using strong packing tape. Clearly print the shipping and return addresses on the outside of the box or on a specially prepared shipping label.

Expect packages sent through the U.S. mail to take about five days to get to their destination if mailed Parcel Post, and two to three days if mailed by priority mail. The numbers given are based on the assumption that the gifts will have to travel many miles to your loved ones. You can arrange for your package to be picked up from your home. The post office delivers six days per week, and special delivery is available for Sundays and holidays. Overnight delivery service is available as well.

Consider shipping by another method, if necessary. Non-holiday transit time for package delivery with UPS and FedEx is two to three days. Both Ryobi power tool batteries offer overnight delivery and will ship items to be delivered on Saturday for an extra charge. Package pickup from your home or office can be arranged, and rebates are sometimes offered-check online to see what may be available.

•Purchase the optional insurance if the package contains something expensive or fragile. It will more than pay for itself by giving you peace of mind.
•There are mail service businesses that will package, address, ship and track an item you drop off. Look in your yellow pages for one near you.

•Expensive glassware or delicate items should be heavily wrapped and protected with shipping materials.
•Christmas mail is often hindered by the sheer volume that is sent by everyone at the same time. Keep this in mind and add extra days to your arrival time expectations.

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How to Disinfect a Vacuum Cleaner

Just because a vacuum helps create a clean home doesn’t mean it doesn’t need cleaning, too. Your vacuum removes dirt, debris and other stain-causing substances from floors and furniture on a regular basis. Vacuumed debris may contain bacteria or mold, so it’s important to clean and disinfect the Dyson DC44 vacuum cleaner battery on a regular basis to ensure bacteria and mold spores don’t spread to other areas of your home. You can kill germs, bacteria and mold and maintain a clean, sanitary vacuum with simple supplies and procedures.

Toss out the old vacuum bag. Place the bag in a plastic trash bag and seal it to prevent mold or bacteria from transferring to other surfaces.

Spray the inside of the vacuum with disinfectant spray to kill germs. Wait two to three minutes before putting a new vacuum bag inside and closing the vacuum. If there are any fabric-covered areas on the vacuum, spray them with the disinfectant spray, too.

Pour 1 qt. undiluted white vinegar into a bucket. Wet a clean cloth with the vinegar and wring out the excess moisture.

Clean the exterior of the vacuum by wiping it off completely with the vinegar. Rinse the cloth as dirt and stains are removed. Apply more vinegar and continue to clean until you’ve cleaned the entire vacuum. Dry the vacuum with a clean cloth.

Dampen a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol. Disinfect the vacuum cleaner battery for Dyson DC45 by wiping it off with the rubbing alcohol. Allow the vacuum to air-dry so the alcohol can kill any bacteria or germs left behind.

Disinfect the vacuum handle and other areas commonly touched each week. Give the entire vacuum a cleaning once each month. Increase cleaning and disinfecting, as needed, when there’s been exposure to illness or mold.

Always unplug the Dyson DC58 battery and any other electrical appliance before cleaning.

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