How to fix iPhone 7 won’t charge

Charging issues are among the most common problems any iPhone owner may encounter without any precedent. The thing is it could happen even to the new #Apple #iPhone7 (and iPhone 7 Plus) without manifesting any cause. Charging issues may be due to a firmware (or software) issue or a hardware problem that’s preventing the phone from properly detecting current that flows through its logic board.

Smartphones are very complex electronic gadgets and while we are used to believe that charging is just a matter of pushing electric current into the battery from the power adapter (hardware to hardware), it’s not. The fact is that the firmware also plays a great role in allowing current to flow to the battery not to mention that electricity must also pass through a logic board first. Milwaukee cordless drill battery

So, basically, it is impossible to immediately know the reason why your new iPhone 7 isn’t charging without doing some troubleshooting. In this post, I will walk you through in finding the culprit and eventually fixing the problem. So, read on to understand more about this issue and learn how to fix it given that it’s not caused by a serious hardware problem.

Before going any further though, if you have other concerns with your new iPhone, make sure you drop by our iPhone 7 troubleshooting page for we have already started supporting the device. Moreover, if you need further assistance, you can always contact us by completing our iPhone issues questionnaire and providing us with sufficient information about the problem.

Troubleshooting iPhone 7 that’s not charging

We’ve already established that the iPhone 7 charging process isn’t just a hardware-to-hardware situation but that the firmware also plays a great role in allowing the battery to charge. With this, we need to rule out a few possibilities to know if the problem is with the firmware or the hardware. Black & Decker power tool battery

Step 1: Make sure it isn’t just a firmware crash or unresponsive screen issue

While Apple did a great job in developing a very stable operating system, there are times when the firmware crashes and when it happens, the phone may freeze and become unresponsive with a blank screen. Apple engineers already thought of this that’s why there’s a very simple method you can use to try to bring the phone back to life in a minute or two–forced reboot.
1.Press and hold the Volume Down button first and then press and hold the Power key.
2.Keep them held together for 5 to 10 seconds.
3.The phone should reboot (95% of the time provided there’s enough battery) and bring you back to the home screen.

Once the device is already active and ready for use, try plugging the charger into the power source and connect the cable to your phone’s charging port. If the iPhone responds and charges, then problem solved, otherwise, continue with your troubleshooting.

Step 2: Verify if it’s the power adapter that has a problem

The power adapter or popularly know as the charger is the primary source of power that’s stored in your phone’s battery. If damaged, naturally, the phone won’t charge or can’t continue charging as the amount of current being pushed to the phone may be too little or too much especially if the regulator is damaged. Prolonged used of defective charger may result to battery problems or even damage the phone itself that’s why it’s imperative you check on it immediately after you discover the phone isn’t charging.

Liquid damage is one of the most common causes charger problems so try to check if you can find residue of water or any liquid for that matter in the charger’s port. You will also need to check if the pins in the port got bent for some reason because if so, the problem may be as minor as a contacts issue. Apple may offer to replace a defective charger provided that it wasn’t damaged by any liquid agents.

Moreover, try plugging the charger to a different power outlet just to make sure it’s not a source problem. You may also try connecting other devices to the charger to see if they would charge because if so, then the power adapter may be just okay.

Step 3: Verify it’s not an issue with the cable

It’s much easier to check the cable. First, physically inspect it for breaks from one end to another. Then check both ends for some inconsistencies in the connectors. If one of them is missing or bent, then you probably need to get a new cable or a charging kit.

If you can’t find any physical issues with the cable, then the next thing you should is to connect your iPhone 7 to your computer to see if it gets detected and recognized. If the cable has a break, the phone won’t be detected by any computer and this is the best way to verify what the problem really is. Paslode drill batteries

Furthermore, get a Q tip and with the help of alcohol, clean the connectors on both ends of the cable. This rules out the possibility that the problem is caused by improper contacts.

Step 4: Check your phone’s charging or utility port

With the charger and cable problems ruled out, it’s now time to check the phone itself. The best you can do is check the utility port itself to check if there are foreign materials that hinder proper contacts between connectors of the phone and the cable. Try to find lint, debris or any sign of corrosion. Also check for liquid residue because one pin is connected to the other with the help of liquid, it will result to improper to no charging.

Step 5: Set an appointment with a tech at Apple Store

This, of course, is your last option should the problem remain after following steps 1 through 4. Don’t stress yourself out so much if your new iPhone 7 got a problem as Apple would always replace units that are defective provided the issue wasn’t caused by liquid or physical damage.

It’s your phone so you should have an information as to what happened before the problem occurred. My point is, tell the technician what happened or what you think caused the problem so it would be easier for him to diagnose the issue.

Posted in iPhone | Leave a comment

Buying Cordless Power Tools Guide

What the best cordless drill has

Adequate power. Professional tests show that larger 18-volt drill battery deliver more speed and torque than smaller 12-volt models. However, experts consider compact models more than adequate for most DIY jobs around the house – and they’re also cheaper and lighter in weight.

Long run time. There’s nothing more frustrating than a drill that poops out on you in the middle of a big project. The best way to avoid this problem is to choose a drill with lightweight, long-running lithium-ion (Li-ion) Bosch batteries, which stay at full power right up until the battery gives out. Most full-sized drills now use Li-ion batteries, but some cordless screwdrivers still rely on older nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cd) batteries.

Fast recharging. Old-school battery chargers took 3 to 5 hours to replenish battery life. Modern “smart” chargers, by contrast, can recharge a lithium-ion battery in 15 to 60 minutes. Some models can even charge two or more batteries at once. However, some cheaper drills and drivers will still require substantial charging times.

Adjustable speed. When you’re drilling holes, speed is more important than power, but for driving screws, you need more torque. If you want a drill that excels at both jobs, look for one with two speeds. It should also have a reverse option so you can back out a misplaced screw or free a stuck drill bit.

Comfortable handling. A drill should be light enough to lift easily and well balanced, with a grip that feels comfortable in your hand.

Convenience features. The features users find most useful on a cordless drill include a battery life gauge, a trigger-activated LED light to illuminate the work area, and storage in the handle for extra bits. Carrying cases and belt hooks are also popular – especially hooks that can be switched to hang on either side for left- or right-handed users.

A decent warranty. A one-year warranty is fairly standard for a cordless drill, but many top-rated models are covered for three years, five years, or even for life.

Know before you go

What jobs are you doing? For light-duty drilling, such as most homeowners might do around the house, a 12-volt cordless drill can do the job. A compact drill can also drive screws, though not very deep or very fast. If you need to drill large holes or sink long screws, it could be worth stepping up to an 18-volt cordless drill, despite its typically higher cost and weight. If you only need to drive screws and not drill holes, then perhaps all you need is a cordless screwdriver, which weighs only a couple of pounds and can cost $30 or less. On the other hand, if you’re driving a lot of screws and bolts, a cordless impact driver will get the job done much faster. And if your job involves a lot of drilling and a lot of driving, then a combo kit containing both a drill and an impact driver could be a good buy.

Do you own other cordless tools? If you already have cordless tools, you can save some money by choosing a drill or impact driver – or both – that use the same battery and charger platform. Even if you don’t own any other cordless tools yet, it’s worth thinking about whether you might want to buy some in the future. If you choose to invest in a relatively expensive drill or impact driver from a high-end brand, you could be committing yourself to that same brand for future tool purchases.

Try before you buy. It’s always best to try tools in person, if possible. A website can tell you how much the tool weighs, but not how it feels in your hands. A good cordless tool should feel balanced, not front-heavy, as you hold it. The trigger should be responsive without being overly sensitive or difficult to depress. Be sure you can easily remove and replace the Ryobi tool battery, too.

Posted in drill battery care | Leave a comment

How to Maintain a Vacuum Cleaner

Your vacuum cleaner doesn’t need very much attention, but some simple maintenance can prevent it from breaking down and needing costly a Dyson DC72 battery. By cleaning your vacuum regularly, you’ll keep your vacuum running smoothly for years.

Before performing any vacuum maintenance, make sure the vacuum is safely unplugged. Then, open up the vacuum and replace the bag or empty the tray if it is more than ⅔ full. You can also try cleaning the brush roll with your fingers or scissors to remove hair or string debris. To keep your vacuum running well, replace the belt every 6 months to a year, or when it becomes stretched out. To learn how to replace the air filters and brush roll, keep reading.

Unplug your vacuum cleaner before performing any maintenance on it. A vacuum cleaner that turns on unexpectedly while you are working on it can injure you.Check to make sure your vacuum has a ground prong. If this is missing, DO NOT USE the vacuum. Contact your lead custodian for repair.

Check the bag regularly and replace it when it is full. A vacuum cleaner bag that is only 1/3 full may be too full to clean efficiently. Remember that the air must pass through all the collected dust and debris, so a full vacuum cleaner bag means that the machine must work harder, or that it will not clean as well, or both. Look for a line on the bag and feel with your hand to determine about how full it is.

If a working vacuum cleaner misses debris on the carpet or leaves behind fuzz where there was none, that’s also a cue to check the bag.

Replace any vacuum bag that is 2/3 full. Read the directions on the vacuum cleaner, the bag, or in the manual. Regardless of the procedure, make sure that the bag is on all the way and secure, and that any clips or holders are in place.

Use the correct bag size and type for your machine.

Empty the bin or tray on bagless models frequently. Most designs make it very easy to pop the bin out.

Clean the brush roll. Also called a beater bar, this is the spinning brush underneath that brushes dirt out of the carpets.

Look under the machine and locate the brush roll. Generally, it will be across the front of the bottom. If it is full of hair, thread, or other debris, it is time to clean Dyson DC74 Vacuum battery.

Remove the bottom plate. This cover may have clips or latches, or it may have a couple of screws holding it in place. Don’t lose the screws.
Notice the direction that the brush roll goes in. Usually, there will be a belt on one side and a corresponding track or space on the brush roll for the belt. This will help you to identify the direction.

Remove the brush roll. Generally, it will pull out of a slot on either end, then slide out from under the belt.

Use scissors or just your fingers to clean the brushes. They don’t need to be spotless, but you should remove any hair or string that is wrapped around the brush. Pay special attention to the ends near the bearings and to the area around where the belt engages. A seam ripper (you can get one at a sewing goods store) works very well to cut the thinnest of hairs and strings wrapped around the brush.

Clean and lubricate the bearings on the brush roll.

Spin the brush roll on its axle with your fingers, to verify that it spins freely. If it doesn’t, you may need to clean out the bearings more thoroughly, lubricate the bearings, replace the bearings, or replace the entire brush roll (in ascending order of expense).

Remove any debris around and in the bearings. Before you take the bearings out, notice which way they went so you can put them back in correctly.

Remove the cap on the other end. Both caps are usually on one long axle, so you may need to hold the end of the axle still to remove the second cap. Clean and lubricate the bearing on the other end.
Replace both bearings in the direction that they were before and replace both end caps.

Compare the belt to an unused belt. If it is stretched out or narrower than the new belt, replace it.
Check that the belt is in the right place. If it has slid off the drive shaft on its own or shifted out of position, it is probably because it is worn and loose.
Replace the belt every 6 months to 1 year, depending on how much use your vacuum cleaner sees.
Remove the brush roll as above.
Slide the belt off of the pulley or drive shaft.
Slide the new belt on over the pulley or drive shaft.

Remove any large accumulations of debris from the air passages and the brush roll housing.

Replace the brush roll.
Put the brush roll back through the belt. It may be very tight.

Replace the brush roll in its slots. Make sure that the belt is still over both the brush roll and the drive shaft.

Replace the cover plates, reversing the process you used to remove them.

Replace or clean any filters on the vacuum cleaner. Many newer model vacuums have filters on the exhaust air to catch particles that remain in it. Read your manual to find out if yours has these, and clean or replace them periodically if it does.

If the filter is made out of foam or plastic, you may be able to rinse it clean. Make sure it is thoroughly dry before replacing it in the vacuum cleaner.

If the filter is made out of paper or fabric, you may be able to shake or pound out the debris between replacement Dyson SV04 battery.

Check the hoses for clogs and obstructions. It doesn’t happen very often, but if you have lost suction, try pushing a broomstick gently through the hoses to dislodge any larger clumps of debris that are stuck. A hook made from bent coat hanger wire can also be used to pull out or loosen clogs.

Be careful not to pack clogs in even more tightly.
Handle a coat hanger wire carefully, or it could puncture the hose.

Posted in drill battery care | Leave a comment

Ideal Charging Strategy for Lithium Cordless Drill Battery

The manual of my Black & Decker cordless drill battery says to charge after every use to maximize the battery’s life. This would essentially keep it fully charged, for me that is, because I tend to use it very briefly. I understand that the most important thing is to avoid fully discharging, but is keeping it topped up really the best strategy? I ask because I read somewhere that lithium batteries should ideally be discharged to 50% before charging, because the total run time is better than, say, recharging every time it’s 90% charged. This also implies that keeping it topped up at all times is not the best way.

Is my understanding on this topic accurate? Or does the ideal strategy differ depending on the particular lithium battery? Supposing that I’m wrong, how exactly should I charge it? Keep it topped up like the manual says?

It depends on use. Li-Ions do not really self-discharge, they lose capacity. Permanently. High and low State of Charge, and elevated temperatures, both speed this. Really, you’re best off keeping the power tool battery something like 20-80% charged in good temperatures, but that leaves you 60% of the total capacity ‘available’ for use.

If I don’t need too much of its capacity “available” for use at any given time, 20-80% is better than keeping it 100%, charged as the manual recommends. But my next question is if anywhere in the 20-80% range is equally ideal, in theory? That is, would 20% be better than 80%, or would the difference be negligible? I recall reading on here that NiMH batteries should be ideally stored fully discharged, as long as they are recharged ~monthly. Of course, NiMH isn’t lithium, and the advice could be wrong, but some of us who don’t actually use our batteries might care, as silly as it seems.

I’ve been using a 12v bosch litheon system since it came out. I generally use it and toss it in the bag unless I plan on doing more work the next day, in which case I’ll top off the charge. Back when I was doing commercial electrical work I mostly used 18v nicad tools, and the 12v lithium stuff only got brought out for renovation work above ceilings and a few other odd jobs. Those were kind of sporadic and the 12v lithium batteries spent months at a time fully charged, nearly discharged(when it was convenient) and being recharged every day.

They’ve been going strong for 5 years and nowdays mostly get used around the house on a weekly basis. The runtime does seem a bit shorter than new but not enough to be a bother. A single 1.3ah battery in my first gen pocket driver had enough charge to drive 40 or so durock cement board screws when I did a shower stall last year with a bit to spare. When bosch releases the 2ah 12v Ryobi power tool batteries hopefully this year I’ll be expecting the same or better from them at the 5 year mark.

Storing at lower voltage is better, but it’s been my experience that they handle being stored at full charge pretty gracefully. There is something to be said about being able to toss the tool in your bag, grab it a few months later and have it ready to go without needing a recharge(in my experience this kills nicad batteries pretty reliably). That said I normally don’t recharge unless I have work to do and I see the power drop/capacity gauge at 1 bar.

Posted in drill battery care | Leave a comment

Remove Memory Effect of Power Tool Batteries

You’ve probably heard term “Memory Effect”. “Memory Effect is the phenomenon that makes a battery lose its capacity to deliver a full charge. It happens more with NiCd Paslode batteries much less with NiMh and none whatsoever with Li-ion. In other words only the Nickel based batteries (Ni) suffer from memory effect.”

When a battery is repeatedly partially discharged, it only remembers the last amount of charge it held. If more power is demanded the next time, it shuts down completely as if to protest against the extra work. That in short is the memory effect.

The simplest way to remove a memory effect from a cordless drill is to make it go through a reconditioning charge cycle.

In order to do this:

Charge the drill fully.
Discharge it completely under zero load, i.e. allow the drill to run on its own till it stops. People usually accomplish this by taping the trigger in an ON position.
Charge the battery fully again.

If this procedure improves the performance of the Milwaukee power tool battery then repeat it only after at least one month.

Caution: Do not try this with a battery that’s working properly already. You should charge a normally functioning battery whenever it loses substantial power to function. Do the deep discharge described above only when you are trying to recondition a battery that doesn’t work properly anymore.

Important Note: Check the user manual of the cordless drill. Your charger may be equipped with the ability to deep charge/ recondition the battery. Follow the instructions, if any, before you try this.

If this doesn’t work, it may be time to buy a new power tool battery for Black & Decker.

Posted in drill battery care | Leave a comment

How to Drill a Lock

Lock-drilling is a last-resort approach to gaining entry to locks that cannot be opened by other means. Drilling a lock will destroy the locking plug, but should leave the mechanism in working order. If you must do it, you can learn to examine the lock and approach the task properly, with the right equipment for the Panasonic cordless drill battery.

Examine the lock. Some tubular locks have a center pin made of hardened steel, while others have a ball bearing in the middle pin to prevent drilling. In either case, drilling will prove ineffective and alternate lock-picking methods must be used. If you are unsure if the lock is made with a hardened center pin, consult a local hardware store or locksmith and give them as much information as you have on the lock.[1]

It’s also important to double-check and make sure that you’re working with a basic tumbler lock that you’ll be able to knock out, and that there aren’t other locking mechanisms on the door that’ll keep you out. Disable any alarms before attempting to drill a lock.

Get the proper equipment. Since you’re using a pretty primitive method to get the lock open, you won’t need many sensitive tools to get the job done properly. If you need to drill through a lock, you’ll need:

A variable-speed power drill. You want a well-maintained and powerful power drill that you’ll be able to use to break the lock mechanism. It would be very difficult to do this by hand.

Several sizes of drill bits. There’s no one drill-bit that’ll be better than others, because you want to match it to the size of the lock. Have a few on hand to experiment with.

Attach a 1/8-inch (3mm) drill bit to your drill. For the most part, if it’s going to work, you’ll be able to get it started with a bit that’s about an eighth of an inch wide. If you don’t have a bit that size, go with something in the neighborhood. You want it relatively small, going through the mechanism, rather than drilling it out completely.

Hammer a center punch at a point directly above the keyhole. This will create a guidance point for drilling. The point should be just below the shear line, the dividing line between the inner and outer cylinder of the lock, which will keep the drill bit on the center plug. This should be high enough to effectively drill through the pin tumblers.

If you have difficulty finding the right place to sink your guidance hole, you can purchase a lock-drilling template. Templates for a variety of locks are available at locksmith shops and hardware stores.

Drilling the Lock

Drill a hole through the lock cylinder through the guidance point. This destroys the pins inside the lock cylinder, allowing you to force the lock open. Most locks have about five tumbler pins to drill through, although some have six or more.

You should feel more resistance as the drill bit encounters each pin, then a decrease in resistance as the bit cuts through the Hitachi cordless drill batteries.

If the drill binds while drilling, you may need to put the drill in reverse and pull it out of the lock to draw out excess metal filings created by drilling through metal. Lock-drilling templates for a variety of locks are offered for sale by locksmith businesses and hardware stores.

Go slowly. Feel the drill work and try not to work too quickly or press too hard, as this may jam or break the drill bit. If you’re having difficulty getting the bit to drill through the pins, you can stop at any time and lubricate the drill head with a little water or a synthetic oil lubricant to make the drilling easier.

Keep the drill level while drilling. If you drill at an angle, you can accidentally drill through unnecessary metal and damage more of the lock.

Switch to a slightly larger bit. After going through with your smaller bit, take it up a notch. Attach a 1/4-inch (6.5mm) or larger drill bit to your drill, and go through the lock again with the larger bit to break up the pins more and open the lock.

Insert the blade of a flat-headed screwdriver into the lock head. Turn the locking mechanism in the same direction as you would with a key. If you drilled correctly, the locking mechanism will turn, and you will gain entry to the previously locked door. If the lock still will not turn, you may need to destroy the entire lock cylinder, as described below.

Improvise if necessary. Some locks may be more complicated, meaning that you’ll have to drill through the entire lock assembly to open the locked area. Switch to either a larger 3/4 inch (19 mm) drill bit or a specially made cylindrical tubular lock bit. Tubular lock bits are generally 3.75 inches (9.53 cm) and similar to hole saws used to drill larger holes for installing locks in cordless drill battery for Ryobi.

Drill through the entire mechanism. This will destroy the entire lock. You will then be able to access the previously locked area.

Posted in drill battery care | Leave a comment

Upgrade Path from 18V Cordless Tools?

Troy has been using Dewalt 18V tools for years, but the tools and batteries are starting to go. He’s in the same situation as others, and wrote in looking for advice.

“Like I’m sure a lot of your readers, I bought one of the DeWalt 18V multi-tool packages several years back. I’ve now reached the point where some of the tools are dying (like the drill) and the AEG power tool batteries don’t keep a charge, or I like some of the newer specialty tools.

My question for you is: what is the best way to go about upgrading and replacing without buying EVERYTHING new? Can I just start replacing the broken tools with 20V Li-ion versions? Are the batteries and tools interchangeable? Is it a good idea?

I would appreciate any insight!

If you’re in the same situation as Troy, you’re not going to like this answer. Unfortunately, the only option is to buy everything new. Dewalt’s “20V Max” cordless power tool line is not at all compatible with their 18V line, except for their multi-port vacuum.

There currently are not any official battery or tool adapters, and there are unlikely to be any conversion adapters later on.

The bright side is that, since Dewalt 18V cordless tool users are faced with having to buy everything new, they could shop around and decide which brand’s battery platform to buy into. A lot of readers have made the switch from Dewalt to Milwaukee’s M18 lineup, but Dewalt’s 20V Max offerings have become reasonably competitive.

To spread the cost around you could always buy individual tools as they break, starting perhaps with a drill/driver kit. But if your batteries are starting to go as well, a kit might be a better option. Keep in mind that the basic kits have saws with reduced features. If that matters to you, you would have to look at the premium kits or individual kits and bare tools.

Dewalt’s 20V Max tool selection is not as vast as their 18V line, but they’re adding new tools every so often and coming out with exclusive offerings such as their brushless oscillating tool and brushless framing nailers.

Having to upgrade from Dewalt’s 18V platform to a completely new Li-ion system, rather than simply being able to upgrade to latest generation tools and power tool batteries for Black & Decker as needed, is not the happiest situation to be in. The need to upgrade everything could be delayed with the purchase of new 18V batteries and replacement or upgraded tools as needed, but that’s just postponing the inevitable need for a complete upgrade. In my opinion, the money would be better spent on new Li-ion tools and batteries.

This is one of my biggest complaints about DeWalt. I don’t see them offering anything over any of the other companies in price, performance, selection, backward-compatability, or warranty. Given the choice, I’d switch from Makita to Milwaukee 18V, but I’m very happy with my Makita LXT tools. If I cared about price and selection, I’d go to Ryobi. DeWalt is basically an also-ran in my eyes.

Stuart–I think before anyone can say, “Go with Milwaukee” or “Stay with DeWalt”, they need to know to what uses the new tools will be put. If I had to guess, Troy is not a professional repairman or construction worker that needs THE best or most versatile tool package out there. If he’s a DIYer like most of us, he may not need the 20V package; perhaps he’d be better off with a 12-volt platform drill-driver, impact or or other tool. The size and weight difference can be enough to make you prefer one over the other. And the power available in the 12-volt line might be enough for his occasional use. I bought a 20 volt DeWalt impact/drill driver kit two years ago, and would have been happier with a 12 volt system.

He should evaluate what he needs it for, weight considerations going to a lighter model, how often it will be used (daily/professional or occasionally) and other relevant factors. Everyone’s different in their specific needs, so he should understand what will work for HIM. From there, he can ask questions about what’s the best package within that set of parameters.

I was in the same situation 18 months ago – dying Craftsman power tool battery & a drill with stripped gears. I knew a complete upgrade was on the horizon no matter how I addressed the issue in the near term. I concluded that the DeWalt’s 18V product line had limited life , and that resale value would rapidly decline as this became apparent to more people. So, I replaced all my essential tools with Milwaukee M18 models, and sold ALL my 18V DeWalt tools. Since I was only replacing essential tools, the sale of the old DeWalt tools covered about 50% off the new Milwaukee tools.

I know DeWalt did sell (and I think still does) lithium ion batteries compatible with their older 18V tools, but the stem-pack firm factor is obviously not compatible with their newer 20V Max line. I really think DeWalt sit itself in the foot by not giving users an upgrade path. As you said, being put in the position of having to upgrade your entire toll arsenal at once presents the perfect opportunity to evaluate our switch to a competing brand – something I did, and I think many others will do. Sure… Brand loyalty can play into this decision, but do does customer loyalty, and DeWalt has shown none of that here.

Posted in drill battery care | Leave a comment

Lithium-ion Battery Life and Death

Lithium-ion battery packs are expensive, so if you want to make yours to last longer, here are some things to keep in mind:

•Lithium ion chemistry prefers partial discharge to deep discharge, so it’s best to avoid taking the Panasonic power tool battery all the way down to zero. Since lithium-ion chemistry does not have a “memory”, you do not harm the battery pack with a partial discharge. If the voltage of a lithium-ion cell drops below a certain level, it’s ruined.
•Lithium-ion batteries age. They only last two to three years, even if they are sitting on a shelf unused. So do not “avoid using” the battery with the thought that the battery pack will last five years. It won’t. Also, if you are buying a new battery pack, you want to make sure it really is new. If it has been sitting on a shelf in the store for a year, it won’t last very long. Manufacturing dates are important.
•Avoid heat, which degrades the batteries.

Exploding Batteries

Now that we know how to keep lithium-ion batteries working longer, let’s look at why they can explode.

If the battery gets hot enough to ignite the electrolyte, you are going to get a fire. There are video clips and photos on the Web that show just how serious these fires can be. The CBC article,”Summer of the Exploding Laptop,” rounds up several of these incidents.

When a fire like this happens, it is usually caused by an internal short in the battery. Recall from the previous section that lithium-ion cells contain a separator sheet that keeps the positive and negative electrodes apart. If that sheet gets punctured and the electrodes touch, the power tool battery for AEG heats up very quickly. You may have experienced the kind of heat a battery can produce if you have ever put a normal 9-volt battery in your pocket. If a coin shorts across the two terminals, the battery gets quite hot.

In a separator failure, that same kind of short happens inside the lithium-ion battery. Since lithium-ion batteries are so energetic, they get very hot. The heat causes the battery to vent the organic solvent used as an electrolyte, and the heat (or a nearby spark) can light it. Once that happens inside one of the cells, the heat of the fire cascades to the other cells and the whole pack goes up in flames.

It is important to note that fires are very rare. Still, it only takes a couple of fires and a little media coverage to prompt a recall.

To learn more about lithium-ion Worx power tool batteries and related topics, check out the links below.

Posted in drill battery care | Leave a comment

How to Replace NiCad Batteries With Lithium Batteries

Replacing NiCad batteries with lithium batteries can be as simple as popping out the old ones and putting in the new ones or as complicated as having a battery pack custom made for the job, depending on the type of lithium battery and the application for which you use it. NiCad cordless drill batteries are rechargeable while lithium batteries are disposable and not designed to be reused.

Remove the standard-sized nickel cadmium (NiCad) batteries from your battery-powered device. Standard lithium batteries will come in the same sizes, like AA, AAA, 9 volt, C or D cells.

Select a disposable lithium battery in a size that matches the original NiCad batteries. Most regular lithium batteries are not rechargeable and can be treated as any ordinary disposable battery.

Insert the batteries into the device. Make sure you have them turned the right direction as indicated in the battery compartment.

Lithium-Ion Batteries

Remove the NiCad battery pack from your rechargeable phone or other electronic device. Lithium-Ion batteries are generally not made in standard sizes, but come in specialized rechargeable Bosch power tool battery packs designed for devices that charge the batteries in place, like cell phones and computers.

Check the size of the pack, the voltage and amperage put out by the pack. If you cannot find a standard pack, many battery stores will create a custom lithium-ion battery pack for you. Be sure the new lithium battery pack you purchase matches the old one.

Charge the lithium-ion battery pack if you have an external battery pack.

Connect the battery pack to the device and insert the pack. Lithium-ion batteries tend to outlast NiCads in most applications. Check the owner’s manual for your device to make sure you can replace the original NiCad pack with lithium-ions. Not all devices using NiCad battery packs can use lithium packs.

Charge the lithium-ion battery pack inside the device if it was not charged when you inserted it. Allow the full charging time to pass before using your electronic device if this is the first time the Craftsman cordless drill battery has been charged.

Posted in drill battery care | Leave a comment

One of the Cheapest Dyson Vacuum Cleaners Packs

If you’re looking for one of the best hand-held vacuum cleaners available, then take a look at the Dyson V6 cordless vacuum cleaner battery. Don’t be skeptical about this one. It does a great job and lives up to the Dyson name, all while being one of the cheapest Dyson vacuums available. Amazon reviews revel at how useful it is at picking up pet hair from carpets and floors so if you’re a pet owner this may be just what you were looking for! Not a pet owner? Don’t worry, it’s just as effective at picking up dust and other dirt.

DC31 Features
It features a motorized brush accessory tool, dustbin for bag-less vacuuming along with the Root Cyclone technology that makes it famous for maintaining powerful suction no matter how full the bin gets. It’s also equipped with a dual power setting that switches between normal and a more powerful setting although most consumers find the normal setting just fine with the motorized brush.

Reviews commonly mention the Dyson DC59 battery life, which runs in the 6 to 10 minute range and takes about 3.5 hours to fully charge, which is 3 times faster than it’s predecessor. It is best used for small cleaning jobs and makes for the perfect vacuum to use in small apartment spaces. Being hand-held, it’s lightweight size is also a plus for consumers won’t don’t want the hassle of storing and moving a large vacuum. The 10 minute run time actually corresponds with the length of time you are holding the trigger and not how long the vacuum is off the charger. The majority of Amazon reviews mention that the battery life has not been a problem for their quick pick ups and may actually make them more efficient at cleaning!

Overall, as long as you keep in mind that it is not an upright vacuum cleaner, you will be thoroughly pleased. Being lightweight, fast, and extremely reliable makes it one of the best hand-held vacuums available and consumers agree. Ratings for this vacuum are consistently at 4 or 5 stars. Think of all the times when you needed to do a quick pick up of pet hair or needed to clean out those dresser drawers. No power cords and no need to maneuver a large vacuum. One touch of a button and the Dyson battery is in use!

Welcome to Power Tool Battery Store, the best place to find your cordless drill batteries. If your searching for power tool batteries, you have found the place. No matter what kind of cordless tool replacement battery you need, we stock it. We specialize in drill batteries from all the names you trust such as MAKITA, DEWALT, Bosch, HITACHI, Dyson battery ect. These are top-quality tool batteries at the lowest possible price available. All cordless drill batteries listed are inventory items which are normally shipped the next business day. We have the largest selection and the best prices – Buy Now and Save!


Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment